BY SHALEEN DESTEFANO
I had the opportunity to sit with Judd Belstock, Co-Owner of Dos Luces to learn more about Colorado’s newest brewery. Upon entering, I was instantly taken aback by the stunning renovation and was immediately served a flight.
Tell us about your name. What does Dos Luces represent?
Dos Luces (“Two Lights”) represents several different ideas, the first of which is obviously the core of our logo – The sun and the moon. But the “Dos” Luces also represent our two core types of beer, a corn-based Chicha and a corn and maguey-based Pulque.
Beyond that, the “nicknames” for our beers our Inti and Meztli, the Inca god of the sun and Aztec god of the moon respectfully. Finally, we chose the name Dos Luces because it represents the duality of light. While you might be tempted to imagine this as light and darkness, we prefer to consider the bright light of day in contrast to the brightest beacon of light at night. Call it divine inspiration or simply the accumulation of ideas within two swirling brains, Dos Luces represents the idea that there is always light when you look for it. I like to say that it is the light of the past, lighting the way for the future.
Your brews are unique, crisp and refreshing, unlike anything we’ve ever sampled in a state where craft brews are overflowing. Can you tell us more about brewing corn and the types of beer we can find at Dos Luces?
All Dos Luces beers start with corn as the main ingredient. We use blue corn malted right here in Colorado and grown as close to home as possible. We choose to brew our own variations on Chicha and Pulque because of the rich history and depth of flavors associated with these drinks, originating with two of the major cultures of Pre-Columbian North and South America. Drinks like these are starting to make a comeback in their home countries, and by making our own versions of them, we hope to help spread their inspiration.
Chicha is an Incan staple still enjoyed throughout the Andes, and is a beer brewed from corn. Traditionally, corn was made fermentable by either chewing on it, or by germination, much like barley, into jora, a sun-dried corn malt. Dos Luces brews with malted blue corn, that we mix with whole kernels of Peruvian purple corn to give our Chicha its distinctive color and flavor. Our Chichas are nicknamed “Inti” after the Incan god of the sun, because it offers the consistency and radiance that makes everyone smile. Sweet and refreshing, it is an everyday indulgence that goes great with spicy foods.
The cups of the Aztecs give us Pulque, traditionally made from the spontaneously fermented aguamiel, the sap of the maguey plant. Pulque is experiencing a revival across Mexico, with these fresh, vibrant brews are being enjoyed late into the night. We take inspiration from aguamiel and regional corn, blending maguey nectar with our malted blue corn, and applying our own approach to this timeless tradition. Touched with cinnamon and mixed with fruits, the spicy, sweet and sour flavors take what might be heavy metal soundtrack and turning it into a symphony on your tongue. Nicknamed “Meztli” for the Aztec god of the moon, our Pulque just might lead to some lunacy if you’re not careful. With bold sweet and sour flavors, with higher alcohol, it offers a more intense experience that pairs well with complex dishes like molès and ratatouille.
How did you and your Co-Founder Sam, come to the decision to open this brewery? Can you tell us a little about your backgrounds and how you began this journey?
I have been in the beer industry since I was 23 years old. My interest in Chicha and Pulque began years before he was born, when his father spent time in the mountains of Peru, working with the Peace Corps around Cuzco. After childhood trips to various regions in Mexico, as well as rooted interest in the history of the Americas before the Conquistadors, I went onto a business career selling and marketing beer. That’s where I met Sam Alcaine, and eventually started asking the question, “What if we fermented something other than barley?”
Sam Alcaine, Co-founder, brewed his first beer in college, and has been hooked on fermentation ever since. Son of El Salvadoran and Cuban immigrants, he has always loved studying the unique fermented foods and beverages of the Americas. Sam has been a brewer, food microbiologist, and now is a professor of fermentations. Over the years he’s scoured the States for Pulque, malted corn in his apartment, and encouraged everyone to drink these bubbling brews. He and Judd met many moons ago, and now the sun has risen on the opportunity to follow in the footsteps of rich traditions and ferment something different.
Being that you ferment corn, does this make your beer gluten free? Do you offer non-alcoholic options?
Everything we make in house is naturally gluten-free, and we keep
our facility completely free of barley, wheat, and other potential sources of gluten, so it is a great environment for those who are gluten-intolerant or Celiac. We do also make a non-alcoholic version of Chicha, which is made
from Peruvian Purple corn. My kids love it!
We also feature rotating guest taps, for those who want to enjoy our environment but prefer to just drink an IPA or other traditional Western European beer. We also make Refajos with the guest taps, where we mix them with Chicha Morada to create a delicous type of Shandy.
How has the neighborhood responded to your inventive beers?
We already have a good contingent of neighborhood regulars. Many people actually followed us throughout construction, whether looking up the web-site or peeking in the windows. Whether they choose to enter and relax in our Zócalo (or “Central Plaza”) or venture to our long communal Brewer’s table, everyone is a part of the Dos Luces family, and we want to be a part of the broader community.
We offer non-alcoholic alternatives to beer, and an environment that’s friendly for singles, couples, and families alike. Whether it’s the design of the brewery or how you enjoy our beer (we recommend a 32 oz pitcher to be shared amongst friends), we encourage people to take the chance to get to know the person sitting next to them.
Colorado has made a name for itself as one of the top craft beer states in the country. What do you think the future holds for craft brewers?
It all depends on expectations of the brewers and owners. As many craft breweries as there are already, I think Colorado could sustain twice as many so long as most of the owners are content to be the “neighborhood brewery.” However, if every brewery has aspirations to be the next New Belgium, Left Hand, or Avery, we’ll eventually have a reckoning in the industry.
Next time you are on South Broadway, stop in and enjoy what Dos Luces is pouring. The culture of this space instantly makes you feel at home.