BY SHALEEN DESTEFANO

Tucked in the heart of South Broadway, Joy Hill is more than just a pizza spot, it’s a neighborhood haven where wood-fired pies, natural wines, and warm company come together under one inviting roof (and rooftop). It has also been our happy place since it opened it’s doors, just weeks before Covid shut everything down. Woman-owned and community-rooted, this Denver gem radiates cozy, come-as-you-are energy that makes each of our visits feel like we’re at our best friend’s house. Owner Julia Duncan-Roitman has created something truly special that reminds us why we love this city. She took time to sit down with us to chat about this adventure.

The restaurant’s interior exudes a warm, inviting vibe reminiscent of a cozy living room in a swanky seventies home. What inspired the design choices, and how do they reflect your personal style?

The design credit goes to my husband and partner, Andrew Templar. The warmth, intimate nooks, textures and details are techniques he has developed while designing and building his other concepts on a budget. He loves thrifting items, working with local shops, bartering, and manipulating builder grade materials to make a space special. The original floors, ceilings and the way the space terraces and unfolds inspired us to create different zones and spaces. We love how you would never know what the inside looks like by looking at the brick rectangular building exterior.

Joy Hill’s rooftop patio offers stunning views of the Rockies, especially at sunset. How did the idea for this space come about, and what role does it play in the overall dining experience?

Growing up in Denver, I always loved subversive and independent South Broadway. When we were looking for locations, South Broadway was my number one choice. When we toured this location, the space was in disrepair but when we peered through a broken glass window and saw the view and potential for a rooftop patio, I knew in my heart this was the spot. I love the mix of gritty urban and majestic mountain views. You can watch the freight train pass the light rail as the sunsets over the snow capped Rocky Mountains. I think the visual dynamics of the rooftop are exciting and beautiful and capture the essence of our location.

Joy Hill emphasizes the use of local products like heirloom wheat and seasonal produce. What drives this dedication to sourcing locally, and how does it shape your menu?

We love partnering with local small businesses and producers. Before opening Joy Hill, I had a small boutique in Brooklyn that sold local handmade goods. I am passionate about hand crafted, locally made/sourced goods or in this case, locally grown produce. It makes the end product unique, special and delicious.

From hand-stretched mozzarella to sourdough crusts, Joy Hill prides itself on in-house preparations. Can you delve into the importance of these practices and how they enhance the dining experience?

Making things by hand in house with our own recipes gives us control over the quality, preparation and ingredients in our food. It allows us to constantly evaluate, improve and try new things.

As Joy Hill became more known for its pizza than its bar (even though we’d travel far and wide for your frosé and chai old fashioned), how did community feedback influence this evolution, and what does it say about Denver’s dining preferences?

Thank you! We initially envisioned a pub-style bar that serves beautiful pizza. A place where you could catch up with a friend over a glass of wine and a Margherita pizza. Or come with a group of friends for drinks and pizza. Coming from the bar world, we wanted a place that is social and fun where you can interact casually and maybe even meet new people.

We do have that element but it has evolved to be more of a traditional restaurant than we initially imagined. We ended up switching out some of our lounge seating for traditional tables because that’s what our guests prefer. It’s been fascinating to see how people interact with the space and we adapt accordingly.

Your background spans from working at Subway to bartending in NYC nightclubs. How have these diverse experiences shaped your approach to running Joy Hill and creating its unique atmosphere?

Working in hospitality since the 1990s in Denver and New York sure gives one perspective. We gained a sense of what makes a company culture attractive to employees and guests alike. It boils down to treating people the way you would like to be treated and creating an atmosphere that is warm and fun. We strive to be intentional about every detail and to make choices rooted in love and care.

Joy Hill opened its doors in the midst of a pandemic during widespread shutdowns. Can you share what that experience was like and how you navigated those initial challenges? How did you maintain team morale and cohesion during such uncertain times?

Getting to the point when we opened our doors took everything I had. My daughter was 2 years old and she stayed with my parents and brother and sister-in-law so that we could work 20 hours a day. This was mainly due to the unpredictability and bureaucracy of the Denver permitting process. When we finally opened it was such a relief to have the new focus of running the restaurant but that only lasted for two weeks before we shut down.

Truthfully I do not think we did a good job maintaining team morale or cohesion during those early days. It was just two other employees, Andy and me. We were all burned out, scared and stressed. As restrictions changed and eventually lifted, we hired more people and did our best. Many of those people are still with us today. I think they’ve stayed because we’ve always done our best to do right by them. The pandemic put a lot of things in perspective.

You recently made the decision to open your doors for lunch-huge win for all of us! How has your fan base and neighbors welcomed this new change?

For years I have sat in the restaurant during the day working and seeing people come up to the door, trying to get in for lunch. Lunch has always been a goal but with all of the uncertainty we didn’t want to overextend ourselves. Only recently did it seem like the right time and it is working out well! We have a special lunch menu with smaller pizzas and salads and soon we will offer a coffee program.

You’ve successfully become a beloved local spot, a home away from home, what are your aspirations for Joy Hill’s future and its role in Denver’s culinary scene?

We would be honored to just keep on doing what we are doing and improve and evolve. We started hosting events and weddings and will continue to develop those. We will deepen our community ties and collaborate with local businesses and organizations. We are partnering with Project Worthmore for produce this summer. We will continue to love and appreciate this journey!  We couldn’t be more grateful to the community and our team for allowing us to do what we do.

If you find yourself at 1229 S. Broadway, chances are you’ll see us there. Here’s a tip: make a reservation at www.joyhilldenver.com.